Jane started by saying she would be concentrating on 19th and early 20th century dress rather than the actual photographs. It was often difficult to date them accurately because often clothes were kept for many years and just revamped, they may even have been passed down. Wedding photos could be a good start because, provided the bride and groom could be identified, the date was known. If there was a report in the local press then it might even say whether the bride was wearing her mother or even her grandmother’s veil. The couple may have bought new clothes but often the family did not. Sometimes they even borrowed from the photographer!
Another thing to consider was the age of the person in any photograph, younger people tended to keep up with more up to date fashions. Jane cited the case of her ancestor who bought a new suit aged mid 40s and expected that to last him for the rest of his life! Other influencing factors could be whether it was a rural or urban family and, of course, the wealth of the sitter. Often in wills the testator will leave clothing to descendants or servants which can also create a challenge. Even if the clothes have not been updated sometimes the hats and hairstyles have. One clue can be whether the ears are covered; if they are visible, the photo is after 1860. For men it can be tempting to use the style of cravat but even this can be misleading. Comparing the photo to fashion plates can help a little as well.
Any photos that can be identified as being mourning ones can also help plus family groups. Having a photo taken was usually an important event, linked to a family event or a holiday.
For children it is important to remember that boys would wear dresses up to the age of 5 or 6 until the 1920s. A clue as to the sex of a toddler or a small child can be the parting in the hair. Boys usually had theirs to the side rather than the centre. The dresses for boys also tended to be plainer without any lace or frills. If you think the photo is the same child but the parting appears to have changed sides this may be due to reversing the printing.
Women
In the 1860s the women wore crinolines. In 1858 a crinoline cage was developed so that the dress itself could be lighter and cheaper, however this could be dangerous and there were several cases of the dress catching fire! By the late 1860s the crinoline tended to be flatter at the front and fuller at the back. The bustle started to replace the Crinoline in the 1870s, there was also an increase in loops and gathering of the fabric, sleeves also became wider having initially been very tight fitting. Hairstyles became higher and more ornate, there was often false hair to enhance this effect. By the 1880s clothing was more constricted with fish tail skirts “Bowling pin shape”. There was no waist seam. Hats became much more ornate with feathers and often artificial additions such as birds, fruit and so on. High necks were becoming popular. Princes Alexandra had started that trend because she had a scar which she wanted to hide. Jackets were longer and more fitted.
In the 1890s bodices were very tight and fitted, waist seams started to appear and leg of mutton sleeves were popular for a few years, some were extremely large. By the late 1890s more ruffles and lace appeared giving a pouter-pigeon look with a bustle behind. Gradually women’s clothing became more sensible, sometimes also looking masculine in style by the 1900s. By 1910 skirts were marginally shorter making walking easier. Hats became very large and wide-brimmed.
Men
In the 1860s men had upstanding collars and waistcoats had lapels, they were also cut straight across the front. Coats were fitted with single breasts in a frock coat style. Jackets and trousers did not match – there was no such item as a suit this early in men’s fashion. After the 1870s it was unusual to see light coloured waistcoats. If the lapels on a coat were open that would indicate the late 1870s onwards. Bowler hats appeared in the 1870s followed by boaters. Lounge suits came in in the 1880s, shirt collars were winged. Men in suits were often in Trade, particularly if the coat was longer.
In the 1890s frock coats had disappeared, contrast waistcoats and patterned ties were coming in. Shirt collars were still stiff and high. Through the decade bow ties started to appear.
Jane ended by recommending a sample of books and websites on the subject.
Books: by Robert Pol and Jayne Shrimpton.
Websites:
Roger Vaughan who has a very large collection of photographs and carte de visites.
Fashion era.