author Doreen Rosman
Doreen Rosman came to Canterbury in 1974 to teach history for a year at University of Kent and stayed for all her working life. Upon her retirement she trained as a guide and during training realised that some of the city’s history had been neglected. Although, much exists for the Romans, Augustine, Becket and Chaucer, there is not so much information about the last 500 years. Hence, her book (with the same title as her talk) focuses on the city, and how changes have affected it and its citizens in those recent centuries.
Commencing her talk in 1450 Doreen said that Canterbury had an estimated population of 4/5 thousand. It was considered one of the country’s biggest provincial cities and the largest in Kent. Canterbury attracted many pilgrims and, as the road to Dover passed through the city, many other visitors passed through its gates. Half the city’s lands were held by religious houses with two, amongst the largest monasteries in the country, being in the city.
By the 16th century pilgrimages were in a decline after Henry VIII had Thomas Becket’s shrine in Canterbury Cathedral torn down. In the 1530s, during Henry’s purge of religious houses seven in the city were closed and made unfit for their former occupants. Doreen said there was much building rubble about in Canterbury at this time, almost on a par with the 1942 raids. Many local people were out of work as their jobs and trades became redundant, there being no need for so many inns, stables, blacksmiths etc. to service visitors. But there was little that the people could do about the religious changes. Some citizens embraced the new religion from Germany whilst others stayed loyal to the old Roman Catholic beliefs until in the passage of time England became more and more Protestant.
In 1575, the mayor was able to offer 100 empty houses in the city to Walloon Strangers, religious refugees from the Low Countries. They were too numerous for Sandwich where many had arrived and were invited to settle in Canterbury. The mayor asked that they be skilled craftsmen only ‘none of the meanest kind’. Canterbury now had a large community of Weavers. They were instructed as to what type of cloth they were allowed to make and could only sell wholesale. This was so they would not compete with the local weavers. Doreen showed an image of Turnagain Lane and the many windows on the upper floors that were eventually to become a feature of houses where weavers worked. The Strangers were encouraged to stay as a community. They were allowed to worship in their own language and rites and given the Western Crypt of the cathedral as a church and also as a place where they could educate their children. It is estimated that almost a quarter of Canterbury’s population were now French speakers. About 100 years later these numbers were to increase as many French Huguenots, mainly silk weavers, came to settle in Canterbury.
In 1690 it was said that there were 1,000 looms working in the city. However, as cheaper cloth was imported the city’s weavers could not compete and by 1719 their numbers had dropped to 334 working looms. This was not just a Canterbury occurrence as other large cloth towns such as Norwich were undergoing a similar trend. Many weavers now left Canterbury to settle in Spitalfields.
In the 1720s Daniel Defoe reported the surge of hop growing around the city with 6,000 acres planted. By 1768 a plan of Canterbury showed the many hop gardens surrounding the city. Canterbury now became the hub of the Hop Trade.
During this era Canterbury had its first newspaper the Kentish Post founded in 1717. Many adverts tell us about the various jobs the inhabitants had. Plus, there were a number of adverts for ‘Flying Machines’ (coaches and horses) arriving in the city. London to Canterbury took 11 hours but was expensive. Although, the fare would be almost halved if you travelled outside braving the elements! Now there was the need for overnight accommodation and hotels employed many for the hospitality industry and also to service coach and horses.
Canterbury in the 18th century, along with other provincial towns, acquired Pleasure Gardens, Theatres, and a Race Course at Barham Downs. The latter was visited by an 8-year-old Mozart during his stay in the area to give a recital. Unfortunately, it is said that a cold prevented him from performing. Spas were becoming fashionable in the country and Canterbury, not to be outdone, had its own Mineral Springs in what is now Pound Lane car park. But Canterbury could never compete with Bath and Tunbridge Wells and there were some adverse reports about ill effects from the water.
Doreen’s next story was about Alderman James Simmons, who was dubbed by a biographer as ‘Canterbury’s Great Tycoon’. He owned a Bank, the Kentish Gazette and was a re-shaper of the city by implementing the Improvement Act for better lighting and paving. To replace the medieval disorder in the city everyone was ordered to ensure their houses did not encroach the building line. He also landscaped Dane John Gardens at a cost of £1,000 from his own pocket and gave the gardens to the citizens of Canterbury. The mound in the gardens has a monument on top commemorating him.
The Napoleonic Wars brought the Military to Canterbury in greater numbers than just The Buffs, as several other regiments were stationed here. This led to brothels and an increase in pubs many we still have with names that show their origins. The city’s population in the early 19th century was 12,000 with almost a quarter of that number being officers and men stationed in Canterbury.
In 1830 Canterbury was at the forefront of the railway as it had the first passenger railway in the world from the Canterbury to Whitstable. Another world first being the season ticket for the summer season on that line. Soon other railway company reached the city. The costs of travel was much cheaper than the Flying Machines had been and people were soon enjoying day trips to London and coastal towns. The arrival of the railway increased the need for Carters and Carriers and the allied trades to support them. Horses and carts now met trains and delivered the goods to business and individuals.
In 1847, a report from George Rigden tells of 39 adults and 43 children housed in 26 rooms and sharing one toilet in the city. Citizens lives might be longer depending where they lived. In St Alphege and parishes by the river the death rate was double those in St George and St Dunstans parishes.
In 1903 Henry Dawson was operating the Canterbury Motor Car at his Rhodaus Town works, building the ‘Canterbury’ motor car. Cinemas are now making an appearance in Canterbury, with the first in St Peter’s Street in 1910. Opening on the same day in 1933, were the Regal and the Friars cinemas.
Slum clearance was much needed. Between the world wars, Homes for Heroes was a movement throughout England to address overcrowding and poor housing. In Canterbury people were being moved to the suburbs. Although, many having lived in the city centre all their lives didn’t like being moved. Some even protested about old buildings being pulled down despite them being in great decay.
In 1942 the Baedeker Raids on Canterbury flattened part of the city. Throughout Britain architects were given free reign to design better town and city centres. Some were far too ambitious and Doreen showed a sketch of a wide boulevard for Canterbury. But in the end, few were built as the emphasis had to be on housing the many homeless.
Doreen ended with 1965 when the first students arrived at the University of Kent. By this time the city’s population was about 30,000 and the city’s growth relied on higher education and tourism.
After the talk Doreen took questions and said that she had left out several key things such as the Civil War as they could make a talk on their own. Our chairman David Wood has read Doreen’s book and said he could thoroughly recommend it.
Report by Tricia Baxter - Speakers Secretary for Kent FHS